Farmer's Homestay, Sunkiya village

Sunkiya is a small village in the hills of Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand, India. I stayed in a Home-stay run by the Sarpanch, Beena and her husband, Pooran. They call it 'Farmer's Home-stay' and it is right in the middle of their fruit orchard. Hence fresh apples on my table daily. Did you know that if apples are fully red, they are artificially prepared. An organic apple straight from the tree would be green on one side and red on the other for it turns red where the sun's rays hit it! 

Beena, Hostess and Sarpanch

Unlike what one thinks about villages in India, this seems quite evolved. They have solar power at places, they harvest rain water and also...for revenue, pack it in tanks and sell it. Their girls study and of course boys too. There is a dignity in their bearing that comes from people who are self sufficient. They can suss you out in seconds, whether you are a respectful traveler or 'city type'. If latter, they will ignore you. If former, you will get a smile. They do not proliferate. My hosts have 3 kids, all studying and getting ready to be self sufficient. This village is also free from 'open toilets'. I didn't dare to use a hill while walking around!

Solar panel

Rain water harvesting

Gathering fresh water to cook and clean

There are lots of things you can do at this home-stay. Sit in the comfortable veranda and watch the clouds collide with the hills, the shadows play on the trees, listen to the birds and the wind-chime and watch Beena go about her day. My favourite was to lounge in the veranda as I tapped on my laptop for I was on a writers' retreat. This was ideal for me. Off season, no one else around, peace, warm food and caring hosts. And a thermos full of herbal tea for me 24 hours a day. You can go to the shop uphill and have Jalebi and tea while looking out at the green hills and feel amused at the curious looks that the villagers give you. You can take plenty of walk trails around that lead somewhere or the other. You can do a long hike that leads you to a temple. Or, of course, Pooran can drive you anywhere for sigh seeing. Sunkiya is only green and green wherever you go and wherever you look. 

My office

Sarpanch and her cows

Have Jalebi

Farmer's home-stay is for the writer, the poet or for a group of friends or family looking for quality time together. Their rooms upstairs have privacy, a common bath and lots of space to just be. Oh and no TV. On Airtel I got good internet connection. Power supply usually is good unless there is a fault. But your work does not stop for Pooran or his son would run to a friend's house and get your phone charged! Beena is the sarpanch and both of them, being natives, know the place in and out. They chat with you if you want or leave you alone if that is what you prefer. You can have meals with them or on your on, upstairs. They have rooms as a part of their section also which you can rent if you wish to experience rural life in its fruition. You then share their kitchen and bathrooms. Everything is clean and hygienic. Vegetables and fruits that you eat comes from their organic farm. They also have a campsite where they host school kids on trips with their teachers. 

Evenings in the orchard

In Mukteshwar, outsiders can buy only 1.5 naalee of land. Otherwise it has to stay with the villagers and stay green. But this is India right?! Builders have found a way around it and have started the destruction that they carry wherever they go. Dynamiting trees off the mountains, boring till 300 m deep to get water and building roads which will bring city dwellers to this peaceful place who will probably play loud music, drink liquor and turn this very safe place to a not so safe place. That is what the cynic in me has concluded! Villagers sell the land for they need money for daughter's wedding (of course) or kids' education. The irony of villages in India strikes me always. Beautiful landscape and ugly political will. In a way I am happy that politicians are apathetic for it makes the villagers self sufficient and resilient. And with them at the helm, nature is protected. 

Backyard of the room

Pooran told me the sad story of the organic food that we would die for in the city. Fruits in his orchard are dropping and dying for companies with fake organic certificate sell fruits at a lower rate in the market. Since he does not make enough to hire someone to help him, his fruits mostly rot and die as he can not match the rates. He can not give them to anyone for in his village everyone has orchards! He and his wife are too busy to do something. His kids want to study. Further, the seeds that they buy are hybrid. These yield vegetables with no seeds and hence for re-cropping he has to buy the seeds again. Hence he loses out while the MNCs win. He says that Sunkiya has mostly everything. The only need is health care for them to be completely sufficient. They have to go to Haldwani for medical care. Doctors who visit Sunkiya charge a lot and also coax them to visit Haldwani for treatment in order to add patients to their list. Is there a model of rural medical care anyone knows about? Flying ambulances or bikes? Can you help? 

As I drive back to Kathgodam, I do that with a prayer in my heart "Oh Sunkiya, I hope the greens that healed my rattled nervous system will stay on as they are now. I hope that you do not get mixed up with the browns brought in by the greed of the city dwellers. I am grateful for a chance to just sit and watch the play of sunlight on your green hills and the clouds play with the leaves of your swaying trees. Stay safe...we need you!"

Rare sunset on a rainy evening

Innocence

My Homestay in Aldona, Goa

My stay in Aldona, Goa was at a homestay called Cancio's House.

I have stayed in homestays before. This one stands out from all.
I feel there are homestays and then there are stay-at-home stays. Cancio's house is the latter. The way they embrace you within their heart and make you feel one of the family!

THE SPACE
The house is a beautiful Portuguese building. It was 1 of the 1st houses built in Aldona, roughly 500 years ago. Finally restored by Maria and Antonio Amaral in 1973.

The entrance

Most of the furniture is antique with the owners not interested in knowing their current value! It is rift with the warmth that only a home filled with generations of laughter has.

I felt 'at home'.

Peaceful. Serene. Beautiful.

Part of my room

The 'breadman'!

Way to my room

Verandah where you can spend the whole day!

View from my room

The garden

The homestay side

THE PEOPLE
A 'home' stay is incomplete without the family that makes it a true home.
The people and pets of Cancio's house make it a home for you.
Simple, unpretentious, chatty yet discreet, with them I felt my defenses chip away with each meal and I was taken to the 'open hearted and trusting' Monica I missed in Delhi.

Dinner with the whole family!

The person I met 1st was Maria Amaral, the 83 years old owner of the house.
She was an English teacher full of stories of her times. She still packs in a full days work helping the poor, embroidering and looking after the home!
Here she is, buying fresh bread from Xavier for my dinner!
Dynamic conversations in one of the best dictions is what I will always remember her for!

Maria getting bread from the bread man

At her fav spot in the house

Chatting with Nolee, the 73 years old maid!

 Roberto and Raquel Amaral run the homestay. Roberto is like a whirlwind moving from 1 task to the other brimming with ideas on what I can do around Aldona.

Raquel is the calm one, and ... for the foodie in me ... a gifted cook! 

She rustled up dishes for the vegan me and also fed me enough Goan vegan desserts to remember for ever! 

Husband and wife team

At her favourite spot- the stove!

This kids!

Antonio and Harrison are older. 

My way with kids is to let them be. They are sensitive and intelligent. If they trust me, they would come. The ice broke with Antonio asking me, "which pokemon do you like?". 

And then the conversations flowed...

Antonio on left and Harrison on right

But my other favourite in the home (apart from Maria) was the youngest...Rafael! 

The happiest kid around, strutting around in the mud, rarely seeking attention. 

Loves playing with water so much that he washes anything in sight!

Always busy!

The dogs...

If Doughnut runs to the gate when you reach there, don't think he is welcoming you! He is only running out for 'that little break in the discipline'! 

Rest of the day she lounges from place to place around the house, snoring heavily. 

Doughnut

Jess is the quietest and most loving one ever seen. She only loves and kisses! Apart from sunning herself of course!

Jess

Love is the USP of this home...love for the property, the people, the pets, the village and all the guests that keep coming back for more!!

Note:

1. This is not a homestay with room service. Meals are in the main dining hall. The timings are menu is very adaptable though. 
2. The family is quite warm and chatty. Be prepared for it! :)

Gangtok

I pretty much hated Gangtok! It was for me everything that can go wrong with a hill station. Traffic, concrete...concrete all around. Every possible space covered with concrete buildings that perhaps don’t even belong in a city. But as they say, within an imperfect space, there are moments of perfection. And here are mine!

THE SHIRE

Staying at this place was perhaps one of the best things about my trip. Quiet, homely, great simple food and good conversations with the host. The shire was everything that I look for in a stay away from home.

It was about 15 min walk from the centre of the town, steep hill, yet ‘worth it’.

Room with a view

Peak of kanchenchunga visible from the terrace

The view!

CAMARADERIE

There is camaraderie in mountain people. Perhaps life's challenges bring together their sense of community. I noticed it at all spots where in Delhi would have led to a bloodbath.

PRAYER FLAGS

One of my favourite sights in the north east...prayer flags. Represent simple faith. With the fluttering wind, the prayers would be carried by to the gods and answered! Beautiful.

Prayer flags

THE ZOO

Don’t drive through the zoo, but hike through it. Ask your driver to go to the parking and wait for you. Walk in. This zoo is a part natural habitat and a great hiking place. You could easily spend a couple of hours in it.

Right in the middle where the car park is is a great restaurant for hot and fresh momos! Somehow they never make them as good as in the north east!

Nature

Hike through

Clouded leopard

Red panda

Day hike

TASHI POINT

I am generally wary of typical tourist spots. But here I was wrong. There is a great view depending on the weather. There is a nice spot for tea and some relaxation. People are friendly and open, as always you find in far off places.

Tashi point

View from Tashi point

Tea and TV!

ENCHAY MONASTERY

Now this was a place where I ... paused! What a wonderful atmosphere! For Sikkimese, this is the main place of worship and I am not surprised. The calm atmosphere beckoned me to simply sit and soak up the energy.

The small monastery

Beautiful window

The wheel of life goes on...

RIDGE PARK

It is an Ok place. Artificially created. Nice cafes around. Good for a stopover when in transit. Not necessary to go especially there. There is a garden close by where they sell plants. Worth checking if you like flora and fauna.

The ridge

Experience and buy!

  

RUMTEK 

Another place for a pause. Was I meant to be there I felt...so strongly yes! I was meant to be there. Beautifully located, this Tibetan style monastery is definitely worth going to. The drive itself is beautiful with paddy fields and bamboo groves of west Sikkim.  

When I went they had a festival going on and the guru, the Rimpoche of the monastery, passed by me for his seat. Just felt as if a whiff of pure beautiful energy passed by. I just stared in silence.

Enjoyed some shopping and some tea in the hospitable tea shops nearby.

Back benchers!

The monastery

View from the monastery

The visitors for the ceremoney

 

The beauty of monasteries

FOOD at MG Road

What I would recommend at MG Road!

1. Taste of Tibet
2. Baker’s cafe
3. The coffee shop

 

MG Road

CORONATION BRIDGE

The connection to Bhutan, Gauhati and a host of other places, the coronation bridge is beautifully designed and stands strong. Not necessary to go here especially for it comes on the way back to and fro the Bagdogra airport. Definitely worth a pause and reflect over the past – when the British reigned supreme!

DRIVE BACK TO THE AIRPORT

The highlight of my trip! The drive to and fro the airport is by the Teesta River and the beauty is unparalleled. The frequent traffic jams and stops ensured I got a good enough sights and pics!