Paro - Tiger's nest - MUST!

The Taktsang Palphug Monastery or Tiger's nest is one of the most revered places to visit in Bhutan. Check for more information.

The Trek
7000 feet one way, we took total of 6 hours. When I started the trek, I told myself 'I will go as far I am able to and then turn back'. I had decided not to push myself too much. But when I started, the beauty was hard to avoid and thanks to my walk-mates...I went on...1 step at a time.

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The cafe
Halfway approximately to the monastery, is a life saver - a cafe. On wood burning stoves I had excellent tea and crackers, Rs 100 per cup and crackers free. Our tour guide said "have tea and do pee". Amazingly as I noticed all over in Bhutan. the lady's toilets can put us Indians to shame. Available and clean! As per the guide, "This is Buddhism in action. How can you have a clean house and not clean the public toilet?".

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The monastery
These are some of the sights of the monastery:

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Copyright Monica

And I wondered...who would set up a monastery in such a way! 

My point of nirvana was close to the monastery, at the natural water fall. This is where I stood as water sprinkled on my face, totally absorbed in the beauty around me. "This is happiness" I felt...this is it!

The feelings
"Unbelievable and awe inspiring" is how I would describe it. The intense energy in the place, the quiet organization, the happiness of the monks walking around and the super beauty of the place! This is a must visit and many visits place.



Note:

1. Wear excellent hiking shoes. 
2. It is advisable to carry a walk stick. It helped us through!
3. Do stop at the cafeteria. The flora and fauna are beautiful. 

What I learnt from Rafting in PoChhu

“Punakha has rafting!”

The moment I heard that, I wanted to go. Having rafted once at Rishikesh, I wanted to go again. The mind screamed all possible objections, but the heart was clear. Rafting! 

“Rapids are up to 4+.” Does not matter. I have to.

MoChhu and PoChhu rivers are where rafting is undertaken. MoChhu, the mother river is calm and meant for families or those looking for gentle waves. PoChhu or father is for the brave hearts ready to battle the rapids up to 4+. It is where the rivers meet that the Punakha Dzong is located. 

We were wrapped very snugly into more protective gear I have ever seen. Body suit, wind cheater and life jacket. We grumbled initially, but were grateful for it later when the waves hit us!

I took the back seat...easy way out. And off we went with a guide in front in a small boat and 2 guides behind us who gave us the necessary orders. “Forward” “Backward” “Left forward” “Right backward” etc. Shivering, shaking, drenched with water we listened to them and tried to smile when they broke into Bollywood songs in Hindi.

All set!

Snug in our gear

...and we did it!

Did it...!

It was the most exhilarating experience of my life and I learnt the basic principles for living from it. So what were they?

1. We have guides all around us. 1 in front leading and 2 at the back shouting orders...we have guides all around us. It was due to their steering that we did not hit any rapid head on and bypassed them with a ‘gentle lapping of the waves’.  Trust the inner and outer guides’ presence.
2. Obey the guides totally! Forward when they say ‘forward’ and backward when they say ‘backward’. The guides know the tracks and where we might get stuck. So listen and obey. We don’t know the Rapids, they do. They understand the level of each wave that comes to us. So even if we don’t understand the circumstances of life listen to the guides within us and ‘obey’!
3. Enjoy! Watching the guide ahead go right in the middle of the rapid and enjoying getting upside down in the river, it struck me that when the life rapid hits me, I could simply learn to let the waves direct me and ‘enjoy’ it.
4. Getting drenched is great! Absolutely. Getting hit by the waves again and again...especially when the body suit is on.
5. Follow the heart’s intelligence. Till the last moment, every logical bone in me was screaming ‘you can’t do it! Don’t go.’ But my heart said, ‘I just have to’. And I did it.
6. We are not alone. Every movement of my oar affects the others in the boat and vice versa. It was eerie to feel that we all are interdependent! So I am not only responsible for my life but also of the other traveller who I did not like much, for we are related in the boat! This was humbling.
7. Rapids are okay! Yes the rapids were till 4+. But we steered around them with ease for the guides knew the right angle. So in the rapids of life when the big ones hit you, simply know what the angle should be of steering right through them!

I came back feeling stronger and humbler!

A good tour guide

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While he was talking to me about the good karma of those who get to visit Tiger's nest monastery, I asked Dorji if he talked to all tourists in such a way. Karma, consciousness etc. He said, "No way! Depends on where they are from. To some I will say - Go for it. Nice trek!" :)

At every step, they had in-depth comprehension of Buddhism in Bhutan in a practical way. From compassion to all living beings to "of course the one who invented mobile phone is a Buddha. It is so helpful to us!"...they could widen our perspectives within a 10 minute conversation.

Dorji

Bap Chencho

Usually I stay away from tour guides. I find them more like a recorder - press "play and stop" to control them. However, where Bhutan is concerned, our tour guides took our understanding of the country from 1% to almost ... 44.5%. They were intelligent, passionate about their country and well informed. Mildly flirtatious, for we were a gang of 14 crazy women, but friendly and discreet! It makes a difference when your guides are gently attentive to your needs, intelligent, good humoured and highly disciplined about time and adapting to culture. These two were such. Bap generally had a book in hand about Bhutan and Dorji enough info in his head to keep you hooked. Their concern for us as women and our small comforts was refreshingly different from ... well... New Delhi MCs!
What a pleasure meeting and interacting with them. From 'beautiful trek' to 'Bodhisattva', they could explain anything we asked for.
I wish I was sensible enough to realise quickly they were 'real guides' and had more conversations with them!

The Prayer Flags

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O wind...take my prayers to the gods!

With the wind that blows, the thoughts of my prayers are carried away to the gods in their homes.

It is unforgettable...the sounds of the flags fluttering in the winds backed with the silence of the mountains and people. An omniscient sound in Bhutan is the flutter of the prayer flags all over the country, whether mountains or the valleys. The flags have scribbled prayers to the gods. The logic is that when the wind blows the prayers on the flags reach the gods. Beautiful faith is it not?
More than that, the flutter, the sounds and the colours look beautiful.

Gangtey. Image Monica

Gangtey. Image Renuka

Fertility Temple. Image Renuka

Do Chula Pass

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I sneaked away from the group, called by a nature trail and captivated by the beauty of it. While all were busy with restroom, photos and stupas, I followed my heart and the trail. 10 minutes, but worth it. Only the very watchful tour guide knew I went there!

calls to me

Between Thimphu and Gangtey drive, lies Do Chula pass. There is a story behind it. The queen built 108 stupas when the Assam rebels were pushed back from Bhutan by Dzongka and Indian forces. The queen wished to thank the gods!

Do Chula pass

I found a nice outdoor place near the cafe and sat with my quintessential cuppa tea! Tea served was more tea leaves thrown in hot water with no strainer. So I ate as well as drank the tea! It had a nice taste but when I went in to enquire about the make of it, I was showed 'made in kolkata!' Gosh...India does not leave me here too.

Cuppa tea?

The view from this place is spectacular. If you are lucky the clouds come down to kiss you. Or the sunlight makes it all so starkly visible. There is a quaint monastery built that is passable...and there is a lovely walk up the national park on one side of the road!

The view!

A monastery...passable!